Xbox controller: soft triggers, drifting stick, failing battery
An Xbox controller lasts a long time, provided the three wear points are dealt with before they spoil every game.
The Xbox controller (One, Series) is robust, but it has its weak points. They can all be repaired at the workshop, in under an hour for most.
The triggers
LT and RT go soft or stay pressed: the trigger potentiometer is worn, or the spring has gone. We replace the module. On Elite controllers the paddles and trigger locks can be repaired too.
The sticks
Same mechanics as on the DualSense: the potentiometers wear and the stick drifts. Classic stick or Hall-effect stick, single or pair; see our dedicated stick-drift article.
Power
Batteries that drain in an evening, dead rechargeable pack, or compartment contacts corroded by a leaked cell: we clean, replace the pack or the contact springs.
Bumpers and buttons
LB/RB broken or no longer registering: the plastic part is replaced, the button resoldered. An A or B button that stays pressed is often fixed by cleaning the membrane.
Bring the controller with its batteries or pack: we test it on a console before handing it back. Prices are on the prices page, twelve-month warranty.
Also worth reading
PS5 controller drifting: why it happens, and the Hall-effect stick option
DualSense stick drift isn't a manufacturing defect but mechanical wear. Classic stick or Hall-effect stick: what we fit, and for whom.
Joy-Con drift: repair instead of buying a new pair
Joy-Con drift is the best known of all. A new pair is expensive; a new stick fitted at the workshop, much less. How it goes.
PS5 that overheats and shuts down: liquid metal, the quiet fault
Sony put liquid metal between the PS5 processor and its heatsink. Over time it migrates, and the console shuts down mid-game. What we do at the workshop.